Foto: visitsorlandet / Raisfoto
My family and I visited Vrådal between Christmas and New Year – and even though it’s the darkest and coldest time of the year to ski in Norway, the trip was definitely worth it. That was despite the fact that the weather gods had been in a mischievous mood, giving a warm autumn and very little snowfall. Luckily, an extensive artificial snow system ensured plenty of snow to cover roughly half of the 15 kilometers of slopes that make up the alpine part of the resort.
It’s easy to take in the 8 lifts and 19 slopes without getting overwhelmed – it really is quite a small ski area. Still, it wasn’t surprising to hear a smiling man from Denmark tell us that this was the 21st time he and his family had visited Vrådal. In fact, they love it so much that seven years ago they bought a cabin right by the slopes.
Foto: visitsorlandet / Raisfoto
“We come here four times a year. Three times in winter and once in summer,” he said, pointing at the impressive cabin before disappearing into the chairlift.
And speaking of lifts – with a sofa-sized chairlift that can seat even large blended families all on one bench, I can’t imagine there’s ever even the hint of a lift queue in Vrådal. Despite high season and several lifts being closed during our visit, the resort could easily have handled three times as many people without anyone waiting.
Vrådal is, like many destinations in Telemark, perfect for a family holiday. If you’re bringing small children and planning a ski trip in December or January, I would recommend booking a cabin within ski-in, ski-out distance from the slopes. That way, when it gets too cold, you can glide back to the cabin for a break with hot cocoa and a crispbread with traditional norwegian whey cheese.
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Besides the main cabin village along the resort’s primary slope, there are two other cabin areas close to the ski center. We didn’t stay in a cabin, however, but at the local hotel – and the moment we dropped our bags at the reception, it felt like stepping into a time capsule.
The guests were a fascinating mix of Germans married into Norwegian families, local retirees in scratchy wool sweaters, ski families from all the Nordic countries, and a couple who mostly stayed in the pool area in the basement. Throughout the hotel, sofa arrangements, rustic artifacts, and what Norwegians call homecraft were beautifully intertwined. The food felt a little old-fashioned – but 14 different ways to serve salmon is never a mistake.
Ski restaurants in Norway are, as everyone knows, a good reason to pack a lunch before leaving breakfast. But at the ski café in Vrådal, I was pleasantly surprised by an elk burger made with meat sourced from just the other side of the mountain. It tasted fantastic, and with the exchange rate at 0.79 at the time, it was also easy on the wallet.
We didn’t see the pool couple on the alpine slopes, but glancing past my elk burger, I noticed them gliding by on cross-country skis outside the window. Right then, I regretted not bringing my own cross-country skis. Next time, for sure.
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After lunch, as I descended the relatively good main slope, I found myself thinking about Trysil, Norway’s largest and most popular ski area. Comparing Trysil to Vrådal wouldn’t be fair – at least not from Vrådal’s perspective – but in one area, Vrådal wins hands down: the view.
The scenery from Vrådal’s slopes is sublime. There’s something simultaneously intimate and grand about the nature in this part of Norway. Lakes, rivers, forests, winding roads, and countless small mountain peaks. It’s simply beautiful.
And if you have a bit of a Finnish rally driver in you, you’ll love the drive from Kristiansand and wish it were just a little longer.
